Pachinko

Rob's Super Awesome Totally Rad
Number One Pachinko Page!

Welcome PachiTalk.com peoples!

Words go here!

Wood cut list:

2- 46 1/4" 1x10s
3- 20 1/2" 1x10s*                 *See below
2-   7 _/_" 1x10s
3- 20 1/2" 1x6s*
1-   6"       1x6
1- 20 1/2" 1x3**                      **Optional
2-   5 1/2" 1x2s
2-   7 1/2" 1x2s

Tools I used:

Cheap compound miter saw
$15 drill
$2 hole saw
1/8" drill bit
Electric screwdriver
24" bar clamps

Other stuff you'll need:

Wood
1 5/8" Screws
Pipe clamp (for 2" pipe)
2" PVC Pipe
1" L bracket things (3)
Small screws
Tape
Pencil
Plastic bag

Tools that you will need for all steps.
(Except #1)

Drill w/ 1/8" drill bit
Screw driver or bit for drill

Here are all the
pieces clamped
together.

*Some machines are a little wider than
20 1/2", so make sure to measure
your pachi and adjust this
measurement accordingly.

1x10's are 9 1/4" wide
1x6's 5 1/2" wide
1x3's 2 1/2" wide
1x2's 1 1/2" wide

Step 1: Cut the wood

See above.

*It is recommended that all holes be pre drilled!*

Step 2: Build It
For this step you will need the two 46 1/4" 1x10
sides, one of the 20 1/2" 1x10s
and two of the 20 1/2" 1x6s.
18 1 5/8" screws
Drill w/ 1/8" drill bit
Screw driver or bit for drill

To make drilling and assembly easier I suggest
clamping all five pieces in this step first. (See A)

The 1x6 front and back pieces sit on top of the
1x10 piece and are flush with the front and top
of the side 1x10s. (See Picture B)

Once you have all the pieces clamped together
drill holes through the long side piece into the
1x6s (2 on each end of each 1x6) and then
screw together. (See Picture C)

I also put 2 screws in each end of the 1x10
through the long side pieces. (See Picture D)

Once you have those 12 screws in place, drill
and screw 6 holes (3 in each side) threw the
bottom of the 1x10 into the edges of the 1x6s.
(See Picture E)

Yeah, I didn't get them all even, so? :-)

Step 3: Onto the machine it goes
Now it's time to attach the stuff that's done, to the
pachinko.

The first thing to do is to pre drill 4 holes, 2 in
each side of the long pieces, _" from the front
and __" and __" from the top.*

Once you have the holes done, start the screws
in the holes so that when you put it up onto the
machine and line up the front and sides, all you
need to do is screw in the 4 screws! (See A)

Now put the pachinko up onto something so that
the wood framie thing can fit over it.

I used the corner of a coffee table that was high
enough to let the frame sit on top of the machine
and not touch the floor. (See B)

Now lift the framie thing up onto the pachinko
machine and line up the top and sides flush with
the front of the machine. (See C)

Now while holding everything in the right place,
finish screwing in the 4 screws that were started
earlier.
(Electric screwdriver highly recommended!)

*Some cases have deeper doors. (Jurassic
Park, etc...) That means that when mounted
flush, the wood frame will be further back
from the front, which means you need to
make sure the mounting screws are far
enough back so they don't screw into
plastic!!! :-)

Warning!!!

1. Don't let the machine fall off the table!
That would suck, ask a friend to help!

2. If you are pre drilling or screwing toward
the machine, BE CAREFUL not to drill/screw
into the machine! (***You may need to use
slightly shorter screws for this step!***)

***As you can see
from the pictures, this
machine has feet
attached to it.

If your pachi has feet
screwed/stapled/nailed
to the bottom, you
can take them off
before this step, or
after, like I did!

If yours doesn't have
feet ignore all this feet
stuff. :-)***

Step 4: Da shelf
Once you Have the machine screwed in as
above, now is the time to put in the 1x6 shelf
under the machine.

Just take your 1x6 shelf and shove it up under
the machine and line it up flush with the front of
the machine and the sides of the case.

Now pre drill (recommended) and put in the
screws.

2 screws in each side are enough to keep it in
place.

Step 5: The bottom ;-)
Take another one of the 1x10 pieces to use as
the bottom.

Line it up with the front and bottom of the sides
and then drill and screw, 2 in each side.
(See arrows)

***The only reason for the boards in this pic were to
keep me from accidentally screwing into the
floor.......again. :-)

Step 6: The back
Put it on.
Fit your last 1x10 in the back flush with the
bottom and sides.
2 screws in each side will keep it in place.
(See arrows.)

***You may have noticed the small grey plate in these
pics, if your pachinko has one of these, it needs to be
removed. :-)

Step 6 1/2: The front thingy...***Optional***
In my original case design I angled the bottom
slightly toward the front and had a front piece to
hold the spent balls.

I now just use a tray to catch the balls, which is
much easer to use, espeicialy while refilling the
top hopper!

If you want to do this, just make the back of the
bottom piece from step 5, 1/4" higher than the
front, and add a 1x3 to the front. (See pics.)

2 screws in each side.

Step: 7 Measuring for the Hole.

The first thing I like to do is draw a center line
inside on top. Just measure over 9 1/2" from
either side from the inside and mark. (See A)

Next is to find out where the top ball hopper is
and mark it on top.

First measure the distance from the inside of the
cabinet to the left and right sides of the hopper.
(See B and C)

Now transfer those measurements to the top
and mark. (See D)

Next is to measure the front and back of the
hopper.

To measure the back, just measure from the
back of the hopper to the outside edge on the
back of the cabinet, then subtract 3/4" for your
measurement. (See E)

For the front, you just want to measure from the
rounded cut out on the original pachinko case
(not the front of the hopper) to the back outside
edge of the cabinet, then subtract 3/4" for your
measurement. (See F)

For those two marks just measure from the
inside of the back and mark. (See G)

Now make a mark on or as close to the center
line as possible while keeping at least 1" on
every side of the mark while staying inside the
hopper lines. (A 2" circle.) (See H)

Step: 8 Making the Hole!!!

First thing to do is to open the machine. (See A)
Once it is open, it will want to fall over, so make
sure that there is either someone of something
holding it up!

The next thing I like to do is tape a plastic bag
underneath where the hole will be drilled, it will
help catch all the saw dust during drilling and
makes cleaning up after easier. (See B)

After you've made sure that the machine isn't
under where the drill will come through, you can
start to drill.

Using a __" hole saw, find your mark and start
drilling. (See C)

Once you've made the hole, you may want to
sand the hole to ensure that there is nothing
that can come loose and fall into the machine,
then clean up any splinters and saw dust, and
just push it through the hole and into the bag! :-)
(See D)

Step: 9 PIPE!

Step: 10 Top Ramps
For the top ramps I had to cut down a 1x10 to
__"wide.

Goto Page 2

How
to go
from
this.

To
this.

Here it is all screwed in.
Or up :-)

Flush with
everything.

1x10

1x6

1
x
3*

46 1/4"

20 1/2"

Feet still attached...

Shelf

2 screws in each side!

Feet whacked off!

Side View

These 4 screws go into the front
and back 1x6s.

side

front

back

bottom

These 2 screws go into the bottom 1x10.

__" from the top.

Front

Side

(Front ---->)

2 screws

on each side

***Remove

Step: 11 Back Ball Return Ramp
Under the hole where the spent balls come out in
the back is where I installed a short ramp made
up from a 6" piece of 1x6 and 2- 6 1/2" 1x2s.

First screw the 2- 1x2s to the 1x6 on the edges
so that 1/2"" hangs over one end. (see A)
2 screws in each.

The next thing to do is to find out where the balls
come out in the back (some have two places) and
positioning the ramp as far forward as possible
with the long ends of the 1x2s facing the back
and make sure it's not touching the power supply.
(See B)

If your power supply is in the way, you'll want to
move it now.

Now just put in two screws (See C) and test it out
by running some balls through your machine. :-)