| The MO-CHINKO BALL STOP I was trying to design a ball stop that was simple enough for anyone to make that was also effective as well as a compliment to any of the cabinet styles out there. After much thought, here is what I came up with. Long live Pachi! |
TOOLS
Router (5/8” round bit)
Miter Saw with a plastic saw blade
Speed Square
2” Hole Saw (If you are using 1 ½” PVC Pipe)
Dremel Tool with a cutting disk (optional)
Sanding Block
I tried to make the tools list as simple as possible, but if you can borrow what you don’t
have, it will make the job a lot easier! I wouldn’t want to make this with a hack saw. It’s
possible, but very time consuming.
MATERIALS
Straight Bracket (1” x 6”) (Note* the bracket is actually 1 1/8” x 6”)
1 ½” PVC Pipe
Glue (Gorilla Glue)
¼” Double Sided Carpet Tape
Here’s our Victim. My Jurassic Park Machine. I had already installed a smaller pipe
(about ¾”), but I was frustrated with it clogging all the time because the pipe wasn’t wide
enough. Let’s face it, stuck balls do not make for a good ball stop or fun play.
Router (5/8” round bit)
Miter Saw with a plastic saw blade
Speed Square
2” Hole Saw (If you are using 1 ½” PVC Pipe)
Dremel Tool with a cutting disk (optional)
Sanding Block
I tried to make the tools list as simple as possible, but if you can borrow what you don’t
have, it will make the job a lot easier! I wouldn’t want to make this with a hack saw. It’s
possible, but very time consuming.
MATERIALS
Straight Bracket (1” x 6”) (Note* the bracket is actually 1 1/8” x 6”)
1 ½” PVC Pipe
Glue (Gorilla Glue)
¼” Double Sided Carpet Tape
Here’s our Victim. My Jurassic Park Machine. I had already installed a smaller pipe
(about ¾”), but I was frustrated with it clogging all the time because the pipe wasn’t wide
enough. Let’s face it, stuck balls do not make for a good ball stop or fun play.
Before you take the machine out of the cabinet, it’s a good idea to pencil the outline of
the back of the machine, so you can keep track of where the ramps are and where the
flow tube should be located. Once that is done, remove the machine from the cabinet and
take it out to your work area.
Step #1
Drill the Hole
If you already have a hole smaller than the 2” hole saw, I recommend that you put the hole
saw over the existing hole and trace the outline of the hole saw. Then use the router to
cut the hole you traced deep enough for the hole saw to stay into the hole without
walking all over the place and ruining your cabinet.
the back of the machine, so you can keep track of where the ramps are and where the
flow tube should be located. Once that is done, remove the machine from the cabinet and
take it out to your work area.
Step #1
Drill the Hole
If you already have a hole smaller than the 2” hole saw, I recommend that you put the hole
saw over the existing hole and trace the outline of the hole saw. Then use the router to
cut the hole you traced deep enough for the hole saw to stay into the hole without
walking all over the place and ruining your cabinet.
If you don’t have a hole already, try to place the feed tube in the center of the top ramp of
the machine. (I had to make this one a little closer to the machine than I would have liked,
but I was forced to, due to bad placement of the original hole. But, it all worked out
anyway as you can see by the pencil line outlining the innermost part of the pachinko
machine.)
Step #2
Making the straight bracket track.
the machine. (I had to make this one a little closer to the machine than I would have liked,
but I was forced to, due to bad placement of the original hole. But, it all worked out
anyway as you can see by the pencil line outlining the innermost part of the pachinko
machine.)
Step #2
Making the straight bracket track.
Using your speed square and the
straight bracket, try to get the
bracket as close to the center of the
feed hole as close as possible.
straight bracket, try to get the
bracket as close to the center of the
feed hole as close as possible.
With a pencil, mark the sides of the
bracket. Then, take your router and
cut out the track. Keep in mind, you
only want to cut as deep as the
straight bracket. In this case, it was
approximately 1/8” of an inch.
bracket. Then, take your router and
cut out the track. Keep in mind, you
only want to cut as deep as the
straight bracket. In this case, it was
approximately 1/8” of an inch.
Once the track is cut, sand down the rough spots.
Place the straight bracket back in and
make sure it has a snug fit and it
moves freely inside the track.
make sure it has a snug fit and it
moves freely inside the track.
Step #3
The Ball Feed Tube
This is the tricky part. So make sure you check and recheck before you cut. The old rule is
measure twice and cut once and it definitely applies to these next steps. Take your time
and do it right the first time to avoid any hassles after it’s glued in.
In my cabinet, I used ¾” boards. If you used other than ¾”, you will need to adjust these
plans to suit your needs. With some simple math, it should not be a problem. I basically
used this formula:
Wood thickness – 1/16” – 1/8” (track) = the top of your first cut into the PVC for the ball stop.
(The 1/16” I took off was for the feed tube to sit lower in the hole for better ball flow and
less of a chance for the tube to block the balls.) Mark this measurement on your PVC, then
add 1/8th” and mark that measurement for the bottom of the cut. (I am assuming you are
using a 1/8” saw blade. If not, you will again need to make proper adjustments. Although I
don’t recommend using a blade larger than 1/8”, since it is the same width as the straight
bracket.
Next, Measure the distance from the top of the ball ramp on the machine to the top of the
pachinko cabinet. (Sorry about the horrible picture, but you get the idea.)
The Ball Feed Tube
This is the tricky part. So make sure you check and recheck before you cut. The old rule is
measure twice and cut once and it definitely applies to these next steps. Take your time
and do it right the first time to avoid any hassles after it’s glued in.
In my cabinet, I used ¾” boards. If you used other than ¾”, you will need to adjust these
plans to suit your needs. With some simple math, it should not be a problem. I basically
used this formula:
Wood thickness – 1/16” – 1/8” (track) = the top of your first cut into the PVC for the ball stop.
(The 1/16” I took off was for the feed tube to sit lower in the hole for better ball flow and
less of a chance for the tube to block the balls.) Mark this measurement on your PVC, then
add 1/8th” and mark that measurement for the bottom of the cut. (I am assuming you are
using a 1/8” saw blade. If not, you will again need to make proper adjustments. Although I
don’t recommend using a blade larger than 1/8”, since it is the same width as the straight
bracket.
Next, Measure the distance from the top of the ball ramp on the machine to the top of the
pachinko cabinet. (Sorry about the horrible picture, but you get the idea.)
Take this measurement, (approximately 1 ½”) then subtract 1/16” (For a little clearance
and you don’t break the ramp on the pachinko machine when you open the door.). Take
the final total and go back to your PVC pipe. Measure from the BOTTOM cut line and
mark it at the measurement from the pachinko ramp.
Next, mark the width of the straight bracket (1”) on the cut line to show you how wide of
a cut you need to make for the straight bracket to slide in and out of the PVC pipe.
What you should end up with should look something like this:
and you don’t break the ramp on the pachinko machine when you open the door.). Take
the final total and go back to your PVC pipe. Measure from the BOTTOM cut line and
mark it at the measurement from the pachinko ramp.
Next, mark the width of the straight bracket (1”) on the cut line to show you how wide of
a cut you need to make for the straight bracket to slide in and out of the PVC pipe.
What you should end up with should look something like this:
Now cut the PVC in-between the two cut lines, making sure you cut just past the straight
bracket width marks, so that the straight bracket fits inside the PVC pipe.
bracket width marks, so that the straight bracket fits inside the PVC pipe.
Once you are done with this step, cut all the way through the PVC at the bottom cut line.
(Note the small end goes in the cabinet. In this picture, the ball feed tube is upside down.)
Step #4
Attaching the Ball Feed Tube to the Cabinet
The Ball feed tube may be a little smaller than the hole and fall right through. I wrapped
¼” strips of double sided carpet tape around the PVC pipe to help it sit correctly in the
cabinet and leave enough room for the glue.
Step #4
Attaching the Ball Feed Tube to the Cabinet
The Ball feed tube may be a little smaller than the hole and fall right through. I wrapped
¼” strips of double sided carpet tape around the PVC pipe to help it sit correctly in the
cabinet and leave enough room for the glue.
Place the Ball Feed Tube into the
hole and align the straight bracket
cut with the straight bracket track.
hole and align the straight bracket
cut with the straight bracket track.
Put a small bead of glue around the PVC making sure you don’t get any in the bracket
area. (If you choose gorilla glue, use a very small amount because it will “foam up” while
it dries and it will expand quite a bit.)
Use something to prop up the Ball Feed Tube and let it dry overnight. It is also a good
idea to leave the straight bracket in while it dries to keep the ball feed tube from sliding.
Again, Make sure there is no glue in the area of the straight bracket.
area. (If you choose gorilla glue, use a very small amount because it will “foam up” while
it dries and it will expand quite a bit.)
Use something to prop up the Ball Feed Tube and let it dry overnight. It is also a good
idea to leave the straight bracket in while it dries to keep the ball feed tube from sliding.
Again, Make sure there is no glue in the area of the straight bracket.
Once it is all dried, check the top side and see if any other glue is needed. If so, run a
small bead around the Ball feed Tube and again let dry.
Step #5
Put the Pachinko machine back in the cabinet
I like to put the machine back in the cabinet upside down so that the top of the machine
rests firmly on the top of the cabinet, thus making the correct gap for the straight bracket.
BE VERY CARFUL WHEN YOU PUT THE MACHINE IN THE CABINET!!! IF YOUR FEED TUBE IS
TOO LONG, YOU WILL BREAK THE FEED RAMP ON THE BACK OF THE PACHINKO MACHINE!!!!
Also note that the machine will “settle” once you flip it back over, so if the feed tube is
barely hitting the feed ramp, you should not have to trim it. Just angle the pachinko
machine toward you as you put it in the cabinet (top first) and the ball feed ramp should
clear the ball feed tube. If you do make the feed tube too long, not to worry, see the
section called “Dammit! The Ball Feed Tube is too Long!” After the machine is in, make sure
there is enough clearance between the ball feed ramp and the ball feed tube so you are
able to open up the cabinet.
Step #6
Remount the cabinet and test the ball stop
Once you get the machine back in place, recheck the feed tube length by opening the door
VERY SLOWLY, after making sure the feed ramp clears the feed tube, close the door.
Insert the straight bracket into the track and pour a few balls into the top hopper. (The
bracket should slide in and out easily and should not move left to right.) You should hear a
pleasant “tink, tink, tink” as the balls are stopped by the straight bracket. Pull the straight
bracket out and listen for the balls going into the ball feed ramp. Put the straight bracket in
again and pour a few more balls in. Again, you should be greeted by the “tink, tink, tink”
noise. Pull the straight bracket out, listen once again for the balls to go into the ball feed
ramp. If all is well, you are done.
small bead around the Ball feed Tube and again let dry.
Step #5
Put the Pachinko machine back in the cabinet
I like to put the machine back in the cabinet upside down so that the top of the machine
rests firmly on the top of the cabinet, thus making the correct gap for the straight bracket.
BE VERY CARFUL WHEN YOU PUT THE MACHINE IN THE CABINET!!! IF YOUR FEED TUBE IS
TOO LONG, YOU WILL BREAK THE FEED RAMP ON THE BACK OF THE PACHINKO MACHINE!!!!
Also note that the machine will “settle” once you flip it back over, so if the feed tube is
barely hitting the feed ramp, you should not have to trim it. Just angle the pachinko
machine toward you as you put it in the cabinet (top first) and the ball feed ramp should
clear the ball feed tube. If you do make the feed tube too long, not to worry, see the
section called “Dammit! The Ball Feed Tube is too Long!” After the machine is in, make sure
there is enough clearance between the ball feed ramp and the ball feed tube so you are
able to open up the cabinet.
Step #6
Remount the cabinet and test the ball stop
Once you get the machine back in place, recheck the feed tube length by opening the door
VERY SLOWLY, after making sure the feed ramp clears the feed tube, close the door.
Insert the straight bracket into the track and pour a few balls into the top hopper. (The
bracket should slide in and out easily and should not move left to right.) You should hear a
pleasant “tink, tink, tink” as the balls are stopped by the straight bracket. Pull the straight
bracket out and listen for the balls going into the ball feed ramp. Put the straight bracket in
again and pour a few more balls in. Again, you should be greeted by the “tink, tink, tink”
noise. Pull the straight bracket out, listen once again for the balls to go into the ball feed
ramp. If all is well, you are done.
Dammit! The Ball Feed Tube is too Long!
Not to worry, this can be fixed on either end with a simple cut with a Dremel and a
cutting wheel.
Remeasure the distance from the ball feed ramp and the top of the machine. Remark the
tube to where the new cut will be made.
Not to worry, this can be fixed on either end with a simple cut with a Dremel and a
cutting wheel.
Remeasure the distance from the ball feed ramp and the top of the machine. Remark the
tube to where the new cut will be made.
Re-measure the distance from the
ball feed ramp and the top of the
machine. Remark the tube to where
the new cut will be made.
Keep the Dremel level and cut the
PVC pipe evenly all the way around.
Take the tape off and sand the rough
edges down.
No sweat, now go back to step #5.
edges down.
No sweat, now go back to step #5.
SUMMARY
With this design, you can use one straight bracket for all of your machines. Unless of
course, you want to stop the feed on several machines at a time. If that is the case, you’ll
have to buy as many straight brackets as you want. I find that for 6 machines, one or two
is just fine. Another thing I like about this design is that it is virtually invisible when you
take the straight bracket out. Even with the straight bracket in, it only sticks out of the
cabinet about ¼”. I also recommend that if you want to open the cabinet, that you put in
the ball stop then shoot a few balls into the pocket to clear out the balls between the
feed ramp and the stop itself. While this isn’t very many balls, you don’t want ANY to fall
when you open up the cabinet. I hope this guide serves you well and if you have any
questions or feel I missed anything, feel free to contact me.
- Moses
With this design, you can use one straight bracket for all of your machines. Unless of
course, you want to stop the feed on several machines at a time. If that is the case, you’ll
have to buy as many straight brackets as you want. I find that for 6 machines, one or two
is just fine. Another thing I like about this design is that it is virtually invisible when you
take the straight bracket out. Even with the straight bracket in, it only sticks out of the
cabinet about ¼”. I also recommend that if you want to open the cabinet, that you put in
the ball stop then shoot a few balls into the pocket to clear out the balls between the
feed ramp and the stop itself. While this isn’t very many balls, you don’t want ANY to fall
when you open up the cabinet. I hope this guide serves you well and if you have any
questions or feel I missed anything, feel free to contact me.
- Moses
And now, moses619 Presents.............
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